Sauk County Gardener

The Sauk County Gardener,

Weekly Column By Phyllis Both,

Horticulture Educator,

UW-Extension Sauk County

January 8, 2012

THE SAUK COUNTY GARDENER COLUMN

“It is difficult to realize how great a part of all that is cheerful and delightful in the recollections of our own life is associated with trees.” ~Wilson Flagg

Sometimes our mature trees have huge surface roots, especially old Maples. These roots serve a very good purpose—they branch and put out smaller roots that penetrate the soil to pull in moisture, oxygen and nutrients. If you remove these roots, your tree will have trouble with prolonged heat and drought. Most of all, these roots are the anchor that help to stabilize the tree and prevent it from toppling over.

If you’re faced with a choice of a good looking lawn, or a stable tree, opt for the tree. Don’t use a mower over the roots, as damage can introduce fungus and bacteria into the tree. The better options would be to mulch those roots with bark, or use a plant ground cover around them. Even if you do remove one or two roots, they will grow back; it’s simply the way these trees grow.

Many companies selling garden products recommend dressing tree cuts with a type of tar. Don’t DO this! The trees don’t need our help; they have a way of healing any damage. The tar/paint can actually trap moisture and do more harm than good. The only time tree paint could be used, is if and Oak tree was damaged during the Oak Wilt season in the summer.

A myth some of you might be familiar with: chewing gum to get rid of moles. Moles are carnivorous, and don’t eat fruit. Personally, I leave the moles alone to do their thing. The tunnels are unsightly, but this activity doesn’t last long; mostly in spring, and again in early fall when Japanese beetles are out. Moles spend most of their time deep underground eating grubs and worms. They do not eat plants—the voles and mice do!

Another myth is that the soil under Pines is very acidic and nothing will grow there. Actually, the soil is about the same under Pines as it is where there are no needles. You can grow plants under Pines, but you need to water constantly because rain doesn’t go through the overhanging branches, and if there is any moisture, the Pines will utilize it; this process tends to not be worth the trouble.

The idea that wood chips mulch depletes the soil of nitrogen is not a fact. It is true that if you use wood, leaves, and other organic materials that are not decomposed, they will rob the soil of nitrogen, but if the wood chips are on top, you don’t need extra nitrogen. After the organic material breaks down, it will also add nitrogen to the soil over time.

The Sauk County Master Gardeners in conjunction with the Richland County Master Gardeners will be hosting a Master Composter training on Saturday, March 10^th at Upham Woods north of the Dells. In addition, the Get Ready…Get Set…Garden! gardening seminar has been set for Saturday, March 31^st. Registration brochures for either Saturday will be available by stopping up at the Sauk County UW Extension Office at 505 Broadway, 3^rd floor, or by calling (608) 355-3250.

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November 21, 2011

THE SAUK COUNTY GARDENER COLUMN

“A wind has blown the rain away and blown the sky away and all the leaves away, and the trees stand. I think, I too, have known autumn too long”. ~e.e. Cummings

In the gardening world, I have a lot to be thankful for this holiday season; almost my whole Thanksgiving meal is from my garden. Pies and breads from my abundance of pumpkins, potatoes, green beans, squash, onions, applies, pickles relishes. It’s really fun to try and put together a Thanksgiving meal from your gardens. Of course I haven’t raised any turkeys lately and I’m not sure I could kill one if I did have one. All of the herbs are from the garden as well, such as sage, thyme, and parsley; of course I have onions, garlic and potato leek soup.

Now that sweet potatoes are on sale, it’s time to stock up. Did you know that sweet potatoes cannot tolerate cold or even cool temperatures? They are a southern crop, but can be grown in the Midwest if they are a variety that matures in 90 days or so. They make a beautiful garden plant and are grown from slips. When I grow sweet potatoes, I plant them in mid-June when soil and air temperatures are very warm.

I never put sweet potatoes in the refrigerator or a cool cabinet; instead they are placed on top of the refrigerator where it is warm. Sweet potatoes will keep all winter if stored this way and usually by spring some of them will start to sprout and you can save the sprouts to replant in the garden.

Did you know that sweet potatoes belong to the Morning Glory family? They root wherever the vines touch the soil and can produce a generous harvest. Recommended varieties include: Centennial (90 – 100 days), Beauregard (100 days), Patriot (100 days) or George Jet (90 days). Sweet potatoes like an acid soil between 5.0 and 6.5 and they are best grown in raised beds. Black plastic will help raise the soil temperature for better growing conditions.

Do you know the difference between a sweet potato and a yam? Sweet potatoes are tubers with elongated ends. There are two varieties: a pale yellow-fleshed variety that is not as sweet and a dark-skinned variety that is orange and very sweet. A true yam is the tuber of a tropical vine and not even distantly related to the sweet potato. The yam is a popular vegetable in Latin American and Caribbean markets; there are 150 varieties of yams worldwide.

If you still have leeks to harvest, they are usually harvested as needed, but you can also harvest the remaining ones before snow covers them. Leeks need to be stored near 32°F and with high humidity; cool them and pack them in plastic bags to prevent their drying out and store them in a cool cellar, garage, or refrigerator. They should last two to three months. If you choose to freeze them, they should be cooked without first thawing out for maximum flavor.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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November 14, 2011

THE SAUK COUNTY GARDENER COLUMN

“For man, autumn is a time of harvest, of gathering together. For nature, it is a time of sowing, of scattering abroad.” ~Edwin Way Teale

November is an important gardening month because we are preparing for next year. However, I am still harvesting from my garden from this year. Last Sunday I harvested lettuce, spinach, turnips and beets; I had planted all of these on July 30^th. I’ve now put the lettuce I have left under a cold frame, so I will be able to harvest for a while yet. I built the cold frame from hay bales with an old window over the top. This will keep the lettuce from sever freezing and I hope to get fresh lettuce until January.

When mowing your lawn for the last time, set the blade to 1-1/2 inches; this will prevent matting and disease such as snow mold. Of course, no leaves should be left on the grass without first mulching them.

Asparagus foliage is an ideal place for borers to overwinter, so after it turns brown, cut it down and compost it or burn it. I prefer to add it to the compost pile as the foliage is rich in nutrients. I also top dress the asparagus with manure every fall to help build up the soil for the next year.

If you had Lantanas in your flower beds this summer, they make great houseplants; cut them down and repot them, bring them inside and when growth restarts, you will have a great flowering houseplant. Replant them outdoors in the summer and they will be bigger and better than ever.

Marigolds can also be planted from seed indoors for blooming plants this winter. Collect the seed pods and plant them in pots; I throw a few in my houseplants and they grow all winter.

November is the time to prepare your beds for peas; if you prepare the beds now, you can plant peas very early, probably the end of March. Peas love the cold weather. I am experimenting with planting peas and lettuce in November to see if they will grow this spring. I’ll keep you posted how well they do.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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November 7, 2011

THE SAUK COUNTY GARDENER COLUMN

“Youth is like spring, an over praised season more remarkable for biting winds than genial breezes. Autumn is the mellower season, and what we lose in flowers we more than gain in fruits.” ~Samuel Butler

I have been surveying my gardens since everything is cut back for the winter and realize that my perennial garden is twelve years old and needs a lot of attention. Shrubs and evergreens, and maybe one or two flowering crab, would give it more interest. My recent love in evergreens is Siberian cypress or Russian cypress. I have two on a hill by the pond and I love their dense foliage. This evergreen is a good alternative to mat-forming junipers. The foliage turns purplish bronze in the winter; it looks feathery, but it feels sharp. In the summer, the foliage is a beautiful green. This cypress is a low spreading conifer, twelve inches tall and can reach ten feet wide. The arching branches give it a mounded look.

These cypress originate in the mountains of Siberia, above the tree line. They grow in full sun to partial shade, but the color is best in sun. They are easy to grow and tolerant of various soils, but they need very good drainage. They are a slow grower and are deer resistant. It is a good shrub for slight hills and banks due to its flowing growth. It grows well in zones 3 – 7.

Another shrub that I acquired last fall is Beauty Bush (Callicarpa); it is really a zone 5 plant, but I have it planted in a very sheltered area of my yard and I hope it will survive this winter. This shrub flowers in the spring, but its crowning glory is in the fall when it produces small violet purple berries over the entire shrub. If you see this shrub in the fall, it would take your breath away with its beauty. This shrub blooms on new growth, so it can be cut way back in the early spring and therefore, it will not get unmanageable.

Since it’s a zone 5 plant, use caution and find the best protected spot in the landscape and mulch it after the ground freezes. It does seem that our zone 4B is getting a little warmer, but I still use caution in planting zone 5 plants.

The flowering crab I chose is Indian Magic. This crab tree can grow to 25 feet with a spread of 10 – 15 feet. It has dark pink buds that open a shade paler. This is a nice specimen tree and is colorful all season with its young red leaves that fade to green with red edges. The fruit is small and bright red to add color to the winter landscape.

I also have Winterberry, which is the type of holly that is hardy here. This holly is deciduous (loses its leaves), but has bright red berries that also add winter interest and can be used for holiday decorations. It’s a must to plant two to insure pollination, so be sure your nursery can provide a male and female plant.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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October 24, 2011

“October's poplars are flaming torches lighting the way to winter.” ~Nova Bair

Since the frost has killed most of the warm season crops, they need to be disposed of. Crops such as tomatoes, peppers and potato foliage need to be put in a plastic bag and disposed of so they don’t spread disease in the garden. Another alternative is to bury them and let them decay; the pathogens will be rendered non-viable that way.

Brussels sprouts should be ready to pick since we have had a few frosts, but they can also be left on the plant for a few more weeks. The sprouts on my plants seem a little small this year, but are still tasty.

It’s time to spray Creeping Charlie with a lawn weed killer. I prefer the piqued spray to the granular; it seems to work better.

What should you do with your autumn leaves? Leaves make an excellent addition to any compost pile. Chopping or mulching them will help them decompose more quickly. However, do not compost Black walnut leaves unless you have a hot compost pile since they contain a growth inhibitor. Hot compost will neutralize the growth inhibitor.

Leaves are rich in carbon, phosphorus and potassium, all essential nutrients needed by plants. Spread the autumn leaves over your garden and around bushes, trees and perennials. During the winter, leaves minimize the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil which often damages plant roots.

Pine needles and oak leaves make a great mulch for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, spruces, yews, Butterfly weed and Cardinal flower. I use the lawn mower with a bagger to collect chopped leaves. The leaves witht eh green materials grass make an excellent medium for decomposition. The ground leaves or grass also make a nice base for a new garden you may be planning for next year. To do this, layer newspapers in the area you want the garden to cover and pile all of your leaves and grass clippings on them. Next spring, all you need to do is plant.

Fall is also the best time to add lime to your lawns and gardens, but only if you need it. If you are planning on blueberries next spring, soil sulphur should be put on now. I would not do either of these without first having a soil test done. If you are interested in testing your soil, stop in the Sauk County UW Extension Office for more information.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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October 17, 2011

“Oh how we love pumpkin season. You did know this gourd-ish squash has its own season, right? Winter, Spring, Summer, Pumpkin.... We anxiously anticipate it every year.” ~Trader Joe's Fearless Flyer, October 2010

Forty years ago or more, my parents planted Horse chestnut trees in front of their home in Illinois. I loved those trees for their nice shape, beautiful flowers and fall colors. Every year in the spring, I would dig up a seedling that resulted from squirrels hording the nuts and every seedling I dug died. Now I know that seedlings of nut-bearing trees produce a long tap root the first year and when this is disturbed, the plant will not transplant well.

If you plant from seed, wait at least four years before transplanting them. Last fall I planted chestnut seeds in clay pots and buried them in the garden; only two survived, but I will be able to transplant them now without disturbing the roots.

The true American chestnut is rare since it was eliminated due to a fungal blight. When I was in Europe earlier this summer, I noticed that they are experiencing the same problem with their chestnut trees.

The Horse chestnut is a European native and is occasionally seen as an ornamental shade tree, but the Ohio Buckeye is the most common variety of the three. Ohio Buckeye is an American native and grows in the woods in Iowa, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, and of course, Ohio. It is usually sold in nurseries and has been planted in southern Minnesota as a shade tree. This is a slow-growing, round-headed tree that can grow 50 feet high. Large showy flowers appear in June and fruits are produced in late summer and fall. A single round shiny seed is produced (the Buckeye nut) and the leaves turn a beautiful gold or orange color in the fall. The nuts are wonderful in pine cone wreaths or other crafts. This tree is very attractive to wildlife; orioles love the nectar in the flowers in the spring and squirrels love the nuts in the fall. To produce nuts, you need two trees for pollination. Unfortunately, it the squirrels don’t eat all of them, you will have some clean up in the spring, but I have never found this to be a big problem. The benefits far outweigh the problems of these trees. Please remember, however, Ohio Buckeye nuts are not edible by humans.

A fellow columnist, Mimi Wuest, is a Horse chestnut fan and if you contact her, you may be able to experiment with the seeds; you may also be able to contact local nurseries in the spring to see if they have a few.

As I found out the hard way, these trees are upland trees and cannot tolerate very wet soil I lost mine during the last flood and when I replant, I plan to put the new seedlings in a drier area.

On Monday, November 7^th at 6:30 PM, I will have a Master Gardener Training class on lawn care given by Craig Saxe from Juneau County. The fee for this three hour training is $10 which will be collected at the door, but please call the UW Extension Office in advance at (608) 355-3250 to let us know you will be attending so that we can make sure we have enough handouts for everyone. The class will be held at the West Square Building, 505 Broadway, in Baraboo.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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October 10, 2011

“Bittersweet October. The mellow, messy, leaf-kicking, perfect pause between the opposing miseries of summer and winter.” ~Carol Bishop Hipps

I love all of the cole crops, such as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kale, turnips and rutabagas. I very seldom talk about turnips and rutabagas, so I thought a little more information would spark a gardeners’ interest to give them a try.

The ancient Greeks valued turnips so much that they made lead replicas of them. Turnips were also traditionally used as a vegetable lantern in fall harvest festivals in the British Isles before being supplanted by pumpkins.

Gardeners grow turnips and rutabagas for their tasty roots, which can be steamed, boiled or baked. Turnip leaves can also be eaten raw or used as potherbs. They are packed with vitamins A1, B2, C and E and are a good source of minerals.

This year we had a bumper crop of these vegetables in my garden. Some are quite large and pretty much free of cabbage maggots, which can be a bane for root crops. I used diatomaceous earth on top of my rows and it seemed to work well.

Turnips and rutabagas do well in Wisconsin because of our cool springs and cool fall weather; I planted rutabagas the beginning of July so that they would reach maturity in October. Usually I add some wood ashes and super-phosphate to my rows. Wood ashes help control the cabbage maggots and strengthen the plant; super-phosphate helps root crops to enlarge. The seeds can be sown in early spring as soon as the soil is 40°F, but I seem to have a tastier crop if they are planted for a fall harvest since rutabaga needs a long growing season. Turnips have a short growing season, so you could plant two crops of them, one in spring and one for fall harvest.

Turnips will deteriorate in the hot weather if left in the ground during the summer. I use turnips for soup and when I have them, it’s the best soup ever. They don’t have a long shelf life either. On the other hand, rutabagas can be left in the garden over the winter if they are mulched. Once they are harvested, they will last up to six months if not allowed to dry out.

Kale is another crop in the same family that can stand frost and winter temperatures if they are mulched properly. The best kale for overwintering is a Scotch type with curly leaves. Since these plants are of the leafy variety, a fertilizer high in nitrogen is suitable; plain lawn food works well. Remember, all the cole crops are more flavorful after a good frost and all of them are high in vitamins. If you use kale in salads, the Russian or Siberian type is much more tender, but does not overwinter as well as the Scotch type.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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October 3, 2011

“October's poplars are flaming torches lighting the way to winter.” ~Nova Bair

It’s hard to imagine with the weather we are experiencing this first week of October that freezing weather is right around the corner. Frost is most assuredly on its way. After the frost has darkened the bulbs of dahlias, begonia, calla lilies, cannas and gladiolas, they need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. All of these plants should be dug after they have browned; allow them to dry in a shady, well-ventilated area such as the garage or tool shed. After they are dry, remove the excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite or perlite, making sure the bulbs do not touch each other. Separating them will help prevent the spread of decay if there is any present. Dusting the bulbs with a fungicide before storing them will also help prevent rot.

Caladium should be stored between 50° and 60°F; the rest should be stored at about 40°F.

A light pruning of both needle and broadleaf evergreens is recommended in late fall to encourage a strong framework to help overcome winter damage. Simply remove weak or crowded branches with a pair of clean, sharp pruners.

A good garden cleanup is recommended to prevent overwintering of viruses. Tomato mosaic virus overwinters in the roots of weeds such as Horse nettle, Jimson weed, Nightshade and Bittersweet; Cucumber mosaic virus overwinters in the roots of Milkweed, Catnip and Pokeweed. Bean mosaic virus overwinters in white clover roots and many cabbage diseases spread from wild members of the cole family such as Horseradish, Stock rapseed, common radish and mustard. A good fall cleanup should start now.

Long nights and cool temperatures will trigger your Christmas cactus to bloom. If it was outdoors during the summer, just bring it in and buds will start to form, but if you kept it indoors during the summer months, you should place the cactus in an area that is about 50° to 55°F in early November and keep it on the dry side. You should get blooms around Christmas.

Some Christmas cactus are not really Christmas cactus; they are Thanksgiving cactus. You can tell the difference by their leaves. Thanksgiving cactus has spiky bracts and Christmas cactus has smooth bracts on the foliage.

Among fall-blooming plants is a lovely plant called Turtlehead (Chelone). It is not as popular as mums or asters, but it is beautiful with very dark green foliage and pink, white or red blooms. Most species are larval hosts to some species of Checker spot butterflies. The flowers are snap-dragon like. Turtlehead prefers moist, sunny locations, but it will grow in some shade. If you pinch this plant early in the year, it will produce a compact, bushy plant, especially in shady locations. Turtlehead can be propagated by seed, but the seeds need to just be scattered over the soil in fall and they will germinate after a winter chill. You should only divide this plant in the spring.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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September 27, 2011

“How beautifully leaves grow old. How full of light and color are their last days.” ~John Burroughs

We are so lucky to live in Wisconsin; even with the chilly, wet weather we have been experiencing, the harvest of winter squash, pumpkins and all the cole crops is going on. In spring I planted cauliflower and was disappointed not to have it form heads; what a surprise when I went to clean out some of my vegetable beds to find my spring-planted cauliflower starting to head.

It’s bulb planting time! I think it’s easy to get carried away with the bulb catalogues and I do every year. My favorites are daffodils and every year I add more to my collection. Reedsburg has the right idea to give out daffodil bulbs at the Fermentation Fest this year. Wouldn’t it be great for each and every one of us to plant ten daffodil bulbs in front of our houses this fall and keep adding more each year? Just imagine driving along our city streets and enjoying the burst of color every year! Remember, for every one you plant this year, you will have two next year since they multiply nicely.

Another tiny bulb I love is Scilla. This tiny bulb will multiply to give you a carpet of blue in early spring every year.

When planting your spring bulbs, add bone meal or bulb food to the soil before you plant; this will help establish a good root system. Bulbs can be planted in shady areas, but not under pines or spruce since it’s dry and they never get enough sunshine for the leaves to mature for next year’s plants. If you have a squirrel problem and love tulips, plant daffodil bulbs around your tulip bulbs to deter the critters; it will also help deter deer, voles, and mice since daffodils are toxic to these animals as are crocus and hyacinth. Always plant in odd numbered clusters, i.e. three, five or seven; this is so much prettier than having soldiers standing in a row.

Once the weather is chilly at night, it’s time to bring your house plants in and take cuttings of impatiens to grow indoors during the winter. The problem with bringing plants in is that you also bring in insects that will probably injure your other houseplants. Simply rinsing the plants with a mild soap and water will help and then soaking the pots in water for 15 to 20 minutes will drown most soil-born insects. You can also use a systemic houseplant insecticide in the soil. This is a mild insecticide and it will be drawn into the plants vascular system and keep your plants free of damaging white flies, thrips, and scale. Be sure to wash all your windows to increase available sunlight and make for a healthier plant.

A fall clean-up around fruit trees will dramatically reduce the number of insects that return next year. Make sure to pick up fallen fruit, branches and leaves; pests live on this debris and overwinter in the soil.

Garlic needs to be planted now. Garlic needs at least one month in the ground before a hard freeze. The bigger the clove, the bigger your garlic will be next year. Treat them the same as spring flowering bulbs by adding a little bone meal or bulb food when planting. Garlic bought in the store does not perform well in our climate unless it was originally grown in the Midwest; you can probably still purchase garlic at the local farmers’ markets or order some from a catalogue.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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August 8, 2011

THE SAUK COUNTY GARDENER COLUMN

“Weather means more when you have a garden. There's nothing like listening to a shower and thinking how it is soaking in around your green beans.” ~Marcelene Cox

So far, tomatoes or potatoes have not developed Late Blight in Sauk County; I think it’s due to the fact that people are more aware and are keeping on top of the problem. Of course, the season is not over, so keep watching your plants until frost.

Many gardeners are bringing in samples of tomato and potato plants with signs of disease; most are experiencing septoria and bacterial leaf blight. A quick way to separate late blight from septoria is to check the fruit; septoria rarely affects the fruit, but late blight will develop on the fruit.

Onions are ready for harvest when the tops fall over. When you harvest them, let them lay in the garden to dry in the sun for a day or two, then place them in onion bags or on screens in an area out of the sun until they are completely dry; this will take several weeks. After drying, bring them indoors and store in the basement or an airy spot. NOTE: Onions and potatoes should not be mixed in storage.

Everyone is having a Japanese beetle problem this year. The moist soil earlier this year contributed to the problem. Peak emergence has occurred in most areas and the population should decline by the end of the month. Keep up with the grub control, spraying program and hand-picking of the adult beetles. Unfortunately, being on vacation for the last two weeks, the population of beetles in my yard is out of control. My plum and cherry trees have no leaves left, the roses are gone and also the burgundy-leaved cannas. The beetles seem to like the pole beans better than the bush beans, so that’s good to know for next year.

Powdery mildew is prevalent, so use one cup of baking soda plus one tablespoon lightweight horticultural oil (canola oil can be substituted) to one gallon of water to spray your plants with to prevent it before it starts. In a column in July, I said to use baking powder and this is a mistake that needs to be corrected. Use this mix on cucumbers, melons and squash as well as your phlox and Monarda.

If you have an empty area in your garden, consider planting a green manure at the end of the growing season. Green manure is any crop that is tilled back into the soils and as it rots, the nutrients will be taken up by next year’s crop. Green manures from peas, beans and clover have an added bonus – nitrogen-fixing bacteria living on their roots can draw nitrogen from the air and convert it to a form the plants can absorb. Green manures can also act as cover crops to protect the soil form compaction and erosion as well as reducing weeds.

Wondering why cucumbers are bitter? Stress is usually the cause – moisture, temperature, soil characteristics, disease, variety and, most often, hot weather are the cause. Often it is only the stem end that is bitter. Mulching your cucumbers is one way to prevent this because it keeps the soil more evenly moist.

Your questions are always welcome. Feel free to contact me at pboth@charter.net or at the Sauk County UW Extension Office on Monday mornings at (608) 355-3253.

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